The Art of Dabu

Nov 10

As a textile enthusiast it is always energizing to learn about a new craft, especially one that has endured the test of time. Dheeraj Chhipa invited me to his homestead in Bagru, Rajasthan to learn about the Dabu resist dyeing technique in which he is a 7th generation craftsman behind this fabric.

Walking around the local town, I dodged cow patties and pigs rolling in the mud to witness this extensive process. The small green space between the railroad tracks and the encroaching shanties is where he lays out his raw material, drying and waiting to receive the first round of block prints. After drying, the master printer focuses on ten meters of fabric at one time, usually the initial block that outlines the pattern. After this his assistant comes by and fills in the same pattern with a low viscosity mud mixture. Next, a thin layer of sawdust is dispatched on top of the mud to keep the pattern in place. As the mud is dried it is then placed in the dye vats, allowing the background of the fabric to be dyed and the mud to resist dye, leaving the natural color of the cloth under the mud. Delhi filmmaker Rajat Pandit and Sumit Kumar Yada have documented this process in their beautiful film below.

This year we wanted a way to showcase the expertise and extreme amount of love that comes with manufacturing each meter of cloth by hand. From the handloom weaving of the greige fabric to the indigo vat dyeing, Dabu printing reflects the same narrative as Qadimi…Our work is a beautiful labor of love!